TULUM, MX
Now onto Tulum. Oh Tulum. I have some serious opinions about this hotly contested part of Mexico. I personally hate the place. I hate what it has become. It is the post-pandemic poster child for over-tourism and cultural trampling by so called digital nomads. What was once a small little Caribbean hippy town, a hotspot for electronic music and free spirited people living in a remote part of Mexico, has now become a place that appears as if the grand architect of the city was in-fact Instragram.com itself. The place is full of wealthy tourists. Trust fund hippys, bohemian billionaires, dread-locked CEOs. Every corner you turn in the hotel zone is a photo opportunity for some influencer to post themselves near a wooden structure of a Mayan idol. There are lines of people on the, for the moment, dirt roads, waiting for their turn to take a fake picture in front of these man-made tourist traps. The hotel zone is such a gross over exploitation of the beautiful Tulum beach. There are multi-million-dollar boutique hotels parading themselves as beach paradises. Rooms can cost thousands of dollars a night, to sleep in a tree-house with minimalistic wood designed rooms. Restaurants here are more expensive than you would find in New York City. It's about as fake of a place as you will ever find anywhere in the world. Entirely manufactured. Built to attract tourists, ripping of aspects of Mexican and Mayan architecture to appeal to their Instagram followings. Well, that is a long-winded rip into Tulum. I don't like it. I will never go back. I have spent a few weeks there, but I avoided it entirely when I was driving down. But to say that it's not well-done would be a lie. The hotels are beautiful. They are visually stunning, and the design components are impressive. I must give it credit where the credit is due. I can't really stand the people it attracts though. The fanciest of fancy, with money to burn in an attempt to seem adventurous and well traveled. It's just annoying to me. ...Tulum annoys me, I guess. There are however, two parts to Tulum. There is the overly obnoxious hotel zone that I have exhaustively tarnished. — With its luxury hotels, fancy restaurants, boutique shops, private beaches, trendy beach clubs, and exclusive night clubs. Then there is Tulum Centro, and the public beach to the North. Tulum Centro is a charming little city. It's about a 10-minute or so scooter ride or taxi from the beach. In there you have all the locals, and the people who have been living there for a while. There are cool, cheap, authentic Mexican restaurants and international spots. In Tulum Centro you're going to find a good hostel scene. A traveler and a backpacker scene. Good parties and some culture. At least a backpacker culture. It was a backpacker culture that I really liked. The time I spent in Centro was great. We never really went to the hotel zone. We spent our time on the public beach, which is to the north end of the beach. There is a road that goes from Centro to the beach — if you take a right you are heading to the over-crowded and expensive hotel zone, — to the left is the public beach. Which is beautiful, free, and full of cooler traveling people. I would say that it's not worth your time even going to Tulum. Go to Puerto Escondico, or Bacalar, or something, but if you do go, spend your time in Centro. Certainly stay there. This log will recommend things almost exclusively in Centro. There will be a few hotel zone places but not much at all. It's washed up over there. Overdone, boring, and most of all annoying. Tulum is undeniably a beautiful place. The beaches are great when not covered in sargassum in the summer months. The hotels here spend millions a year pulling it from the beaches. There are some great raves and parties if you know where to look. And you can find a really nice community of people in the center. So it's not all bad, but the hotel zone is.
Tulum is a coastal Mexican town, located on the Yucatan Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo. It is located near Cancun, about 2 hours south. So if you are coming to Tulum, Cancun will probably be in your travel plans as well. Maybe you are flying into Cancun, or just passing through, it. Getting to Tulum is pretty easy. There's no international airport there now, but I wouldn't be surprised if they have plans for one in the future. To get there it just involves a bus from the North or from the South. If you are coming from the North, you will be coming from Cancun. The south, probably Bacalar at the border of Belize.
Let's start from the North.
FROM THE NORTH, CANCUN - Either way you are going to have to get here from the Cancun bus stop. If you are flying into Cancun you first need to get there. Once you are at the airport you need to find an ADO bus that will take you directly to Tulum. The schedule of buses from the airport directly to Tulum is here. The other option is to go from the Cancun bus terminal. Same drill, find an ADO bus from there to Tulum. The trip is going to take you about 2 hours and 30 minutes, and will cost ~250 MXP.
FROM THE SOUTH, BACALAR - If you are down here already you just need to get on an ADO bus up to Tulum. If you are coming up from Bacalar, it's the same story, get yourself to the ADO terminal there. It will be a 3-hour journey, and will cost about 500 MXP. A little bit expensive, but it's the best way to get up.
The ADO drop-off in Tulum is going to be here. It's going to be in Centro, so if you are going to the hotel zone, then you are going to have to get yourself over there. If you are in Centro, it's going to be a pretty easy walk, or simple taxi no matter where you are going. Tulum itself really isn't all that big.
Once you are here in Tulum, I would recommend that you get a scooter. They will significantly increase your mobility in the city, allowing you to be in the center, while also going to the beach whenever you want. Centro isn't huge, but it's also a pain in the ass to walk around.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
Accommodation in Tulum is a very bipolar thing to talk about. You have your ultra-luxury options in the hotel zone, then the hostel options in Centro. I am not going to get into the hotel options. If you can afford those, I would be surprised if you are looking at this website. I will talk about a few hostel-type options. So there are options for everyone.
All of the hostels in Tulum are in the center, and they are actually pretty well-priced. No problem here finding something for under $15 per night.
If you are coming here with a big group, which is also a very common thing to do, Airbnb is going to be your best bet. There are beautiful, large villas here that can fit like 20 people, and are perfect for a big group. The price won't be that crazy, and if you are coming here for vacation like a lot of people do, this is the way to do it. If you are looking for an Airbnb, a good option is in Aldea Zama, which is a gated community in between the beach and Centro. So you are close to both. Options in there will be better priced than on the beach, and really high quality.
Tulum is very party, and most of the hostels will be like that. Straw hat is no exception. It's a party hostel, with a rooftop bar and pool. The hostel isn't quite as corporate-feeling as the other party hostels (Mayan Monkey and Che). It's not really that big, and I like that. If you are looking to party with cool people I would say Straw Hat is your best bet. Probably where I would stay going back. Rooftop bar, daily happy hours, the jungle raves depart from here, all that stuff.
Mama's house is going to be the only down to earth option really. It's a super modest little home, kind of. It won't be party, the people will be cool. Accommodation will be super basic. I stayed here when I was there, and it was really chill and nice. If you are looking to feel an authentic hostel experience and not go crazy partying, then this is the perfect spot for you.
This is just a massive party hostel. Whether you are staying here or not you will probably end up here for a party. I personally wouldn't stay here — it's just a massive hostel with big parties every night. They are fun though. The accommodation will be pretty nice also.
I spent at least a few days here at Che Tulum. I liked it a lot, actually. I met really cool people and had a nice stay. Certainly a party hostel though. With a pool and nightly events, and all that. It's a bigger hostel, but not huge. There will be tons of backpackers here, and it's a solid option if you want to party and meet people.
This is a newer, smaller, and nicer hostel in the center. It's really nice, and well-done, and it's not big. You'll have a nice mix of partying and wholesome interactions here. At only $15 a night, it's going to be some of the nicest accommodation you can get for the price. A really good option if you are looking for something social but not overwhelming.
A nicer and newer hostel here. It's going to be much more mellow and down to earth. Not going to be a party place. So if you are looking for something chill and nice, this is your spot. There's a pool, a kitchen, nice dorms — all of that. Only $11 a night, so it's cheap and great.
EATS
Eating in Tulum is not dissimilar from the accommodation options here. You can go so far up and down the spectrum. There are luxury and fine dining options, from all over the world. Restaurants and chefs from London and New York have locations here. So you can really go all-out if that's your thing.
But on top of that there's really good, affordably-priced food in the center. It's a mix of local food and then transplant-owned and inspired spots. I am going to get into those options. There's lots, and you can't go wrong. Again, everything I am saying here is going to revolve around the center of Tulum rather than the hotel zone. There's a few places to the north that are really good as well — in the area past the public beach.
Food Options
The eats in Cozumel can be really really good. But you've gotta get yourself off the really touristy Malecon. Really like anywhere in the world this touristy walk is going to have overpriced food that is not really quality at all. Or reminiscent of the local flavor at all. I personally avoid them at all costs. Really the only time that I will go into tourist traps like this is if I need to buy a beer or something while I wait for example a ferry. I would rather not eat not eat in these places, save my appetite for a legitimately good place that is just down the road or waiting to be found, with just a little bit of added effort. The extra effort in finding a local spot will save you money, and your pallet will thank you. So will the local people who rely on this.
Probably the most 'must' place in all of Tulum. It's a delicious and really popular burrito. It's famously wrapped-up in a banana leaf as a wrap around the tortilla. They make excellent food here, the atmosphere is nice, and it won't break the bank. I kept coming back.
Another good place to get a pretty well-priced burrito that is really good. Not dissimilar from Burrito Amor.
One of the best spots I ate at in Tulum. Super down-to-earth outdoor spot with handmade wooden tables, and really good burgers. Not too expensive, right in the center of town, I would say it's a must.
A notably good street taco place. It's right in front of the Oxxo, and they have awesome tacos and tortas.
Local sit-down spot. They have traditional full plates, and all that. Nice place to sit down and eat local food.
Cute little cafe spot for breakfast and lunch. Not expensive, nice atmosphere, and has a lot of options for the vegan and veggie people out there.
Chill little coffee shop that has nice breakfast, juices and smoothies. It's a nice spot to come hung-over in the morning.
'Antojitos' are small, savory Mexican street-snacks or appetizers. This place will have those, and it's a great spot to go late at night for some cheap comfort food.
This will be the most expensive option on the list, but it's really delicious Thai food, and a good way to treat yourself as they say. It's on the beach, but on the northern side out of the hotel zone. They are serving up really delicious Thai food right on the water. Good spot for a date, or just a nice meal.
and many more...
There's obviously tons of places to eat here. Depending on your budget, the world of options may be unlimited. If your budget is not unlimited, don't worry, there's still tons of good places to eat for the right price. Go explore, also in general there is a lot of street food in Tulum, in the center. Just walking around you'll run past a lot of it. Give it a try.
NIGHTLIFE
Tulum is known for its nightlife. It's world-renowned actually, and that's one of the reasons people come here in the first place. The gigantic nightclubs and day clubs on the beach in the hotel zone are always crowded, and people come here all year round to go to them. But they are super-expensive. Not unlike going to a club in Miami or New York from a price perspective. Fancy, bottle service, that whole thing. There is an entire scene here in the hotel zone. It's not something that I enjoy though, but I will mention a few of the popular ones. I wouldn't be doing Tulum nightlife justice without. It's not hard to find it, just go to the hotel zone and there's clubs everywhere.
Outside of the hotel zone, there's still good nightlife. In the center, there are tons of bars and still that I really enjoyed going out to. Also there are jungle raves that happen on the outskirts of town, and around the beach. These are extremely fun. I had the time of my life at one of them and would highly recommend going to one if there is one happening. Also there's a great scene of house parties in Tulum Centro. It's kind of on 'who knows who' basis though, and not necessarily public knowledge. Make friends with one of the hostel volunteers, and they will certainly be in-the-know.
Tulum's nightlife can be amazing — far removed from the tacky touristy part. You just have to work a little harder to find it.
One of the better places in Centro to come out for a night. Most of the bars to go out are on this street. This place has live music a lot of the time and is always full of people.
A nice bar around the corner from the main bars in Centro. A good place to go in and get drinks. Pretty mellow usually.
Super-cool place to come and drink on the main street of bars in Centro. Was one of my favorites. It was always full of cool people, and nice loud music. You can miss it if you are on a night out in Centro.
Backpacker party hostel with a big rooftop bar. It's where the Tulum pub-crawl starts, as well as where I picked up my transportation to head to the Tulum jungle rave. So a lot of things kind of start here. But it's a good place to get drinks on the roof regardless.
Huge party hostel that has a massive bar that turns into a party. It's going to be wild and loud with a DJ, and it's a good spot to go party.
Local bar in Centro that is popular to go out. Kind of night-clubby — will have a local flavor, and it's a great spot to go out late.
Something that happens in most big backpacker towns. There will be a pub crawl here. It will be a fun, very drunk way to meet people.
Jungle Rave/House Party
This is just a general recommendation. Try and figure out when and where the house parties and jungle raves are happening. It's the best that Tulum nightlife has to offer. It's just not necessarily publicized. Talk to your hostel volunteers, make friends with them — maybe they will invite you.
One of the only non-posh places I found to get drunk in the hotel zone. It's a multi-level kind of tree-house-like thing. Cheap-ish food and drinks, mellow vibes. Americanized though.
Hotel zone mainstay. This place is pretty amazing — I can't lie. It's this massive beachfront hotel that is also kind of an art installation. It's been around for a long time. They have excellent parties on this beachfront spot. It's really expensive, and hard to get in if you aren't staying here, but if you can get in the raves they have are great.
Fancy restaurant that is also a club at night. I found it pretty ridiculous and over-priced but it's always full of people, and is on the top of the list of places in the hotel zone for going out.
Another club in the hotel zone. It's really expensive, but will be packed with good-looking tourists. You're going to spend too much money but you will probably have fun, even though your wallet will hurt in the morning. It's one of the most famous places to go out in the hotel zone.
SIGHTS
Cozumel is a big island, with lots to explore. There's also amazing diving here. Some of my favorite in the whole of the Caribbean. So there are plenty of things to do. The east side of the island is almost entirely uninhabited, and therefore a really cool part of Cozumel to explore.
I will get into it below a little more but I just wanted to reiterate it because I really enjoyed exploring over there. You have to rent a scooter, but I would recommend in general getting a scooter. The island is really big and I wouldn't say it's walkable, unless you just stay near the Malecon, which I don't recommend at all. So get a scooter for a few days, and the possibilities of things to do on the island really explodes.
Easily the coolest activity to do around Tulum. Dive and check out all of the different cenotes that are around the area. There are more than 6,000 cenotes, or 'fresh water caves', in and around the Yucatan Peninsula. Many of them are right around Tulum. Diving the cenotes is, to date, some of the most unique diving that I have ever done. First it's fresh-water, second it's a cave. It's just so amazing. There's a lot of options of cenotes to dive in, but I would recommend trying to explore outside of the popular ones. I would recommend, The Pit, Dos Ojos, Chac Mool, and Tajma Ha. They are really amazing. It's worth the cost for sure. There's a bunch of dive shops in town, all specializing in diving cenotes. I have linked one here.
Even if you aren't diving, going on a tour to one of the theme-park style areas where the cenotes are is a fun afternoon. You'll really be a tourist, but it's cool, and swimming in these things is special and memorable. Even if you don't dive. Exploring the outer cenotes with your own vehicle is really cool too. But that requires you have a car and can drive a few hours. One of the best, and most Instagram-famous being 'Cenote Suytun', which is about an hour-and-a-half from Tulum.
The public beach to the north is beautiful, and most importantly, it's free. It's a stunning white sand beach. Perfect for just hanging out and avoiding all the touristy crowd. I loved it, and went almost everyday.
Not really a thing to do, but I would recommend renting a scooter. You're going to be able to do so much more with one. It opens Tulum up from the shitty hotel zone, to everything else. Good scooter place linked here.
There's some cool Mayan ruins in Tulum. They aren't going to compare to Chichen Itza or anything, but they are still something to do. They are to the north of Tulum, north of the public beach.
Last, and certainly least, you can go check out the beach clubs. They are actually very well done, if not totally ridiculous. But if you want to for a day, go into Papaya Playa or something and hang out. It will be relaxing, and you will feel rich for the day.
You in the flat, flat Caribbean. Nothing happening here.
SURFING