SAN JOSE DEL PACIFICO, MX
I know I say this a lot when I am talking about Mexico, but San Jose Del Pacific very well may be one of my favorite places in the country — maybe in the world. Really and truly. When you think of Mexico, rarely are you thinking of pine trees, high up in the mountains and above the clouds. Rarely are you thinking of cold nights, bundled up in blankets around fires in the wilderness. Hot chocolate. Hoodies. Sprawling forest. Etc. But here up in the mountains of Oaxaca that is exactly what you will find in this truly magical mountain town. At 2,500 meters above sea level, don't expect to be warm. It is also conveniently located about 3 hours away from Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca City. So a 3-hour bus ride from either place will get you up here. After the long and windy drive up into the mountains, you may think to yourself that where you are is more resemblant of somewhere in the Himalayas than in Mexico. Little tuk tuks taking heavily clothed, hippy looking backpackers through the winding small streets of the town. Women on the side of the roads knitting blankets and trinkets — bundled up in warm clothing. Small little mountain-style restaurants advertising hot chocolate, etc. But you are not in the Himalayas, you are in Mexico. This country, again, with a surprise around every corner. San Jose Del Pacifico is beautiful, unique, a welcome change from the heat you find in the rest of the country, but it is also home to another thing. Another thing that brings people from all over the world. It is one of the best places in the world to come and take Shrooms. Yes, the magic kind. The history of mushrooms in San Jose Del Pacific goes back generations. The town has been practicing the use of mushrooms in ceremonies for hundreds of years led by shamans, called 'veladas'. But these days, people flock from all over — especially backpackers, to buy high quality mushrooms and walk around in the forest. Almost everyone that you meet there will be up there to do some, and it's surprising if they aren't. It's a welcoming (I think legal?) and comforting environment to trip. Everyone is there to do it and it's such a nice place to do so. With stunning hikes up into the woods that are right behind the hostels, and shrooms sold directly at the front desk, it's just an awesome experience. When it comes to the shrooms, there is a season for them, which is from July to October. Corresponding to the rains. If you are here in this season they will be fresh, they will be cheap — and better. But don't worry if you are there out of season they will still be great, just a little more expensive and less fresh. If you are here to take shrooms, enjoy. It will be an amazing day no matter if you decide to lose your ego or just make your nature walk a little more fun. If you aren't here to do mushrooms, don't worry, just being here is amazing. Up at altitude, breathing this amazing pure air is something worth doing. Additionally, the hostels here in San Jose are just amazing. The hostel I stayed at here is probably my favorite I have ever stayed anywhere in the world. There's a great community of people visiting here all the time. Additionally, this is probably the best place in the country to participate in a Temazcal ceremony. A traditional sweat-lodge ceremony with a shaman in the woods. There is a guy named 'Paco' who is famous, and considered one of the best shamans in Mexico up here. He is in high demand, but for good reason. Regardless, the name of the game up in San Jose is to relax. There's nothing to do but chill, go on walks, look at the trees and just wind down. Come up here and put on your list of things to do 'spend the day doing nothing'. Enjoy this place. It is magic. Don't be a dumb tourist here either. There is no ATM up here. So bring sufficient cash. It's all cash here as well.
San Jose del Pacific is very conveniently located right in-between two of the most popular tourist spots in the entire state of Oaxaca. It's about 3 hours by bus from Oaxaca City, and about 3 hours by bus or shuttle from Puerto Escondido. So if you are in the area, it's going to be a very easy less than half-day trip to get up here. It's up there though. You will be winding through the forest all the way up and down. Make sure to keep your eyes peeled out the window because the view is beautiful the entire way up.
If you are going there by bus, just check at your hostel for a shuttle from either area up to San Jose. There are two companies that will be operating from both Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido. Lineas Unidas & Eclipse 70.
If you are coming from Puerto Escondido, however, you will first have to get yourself to San Pedro Pochutla. From there you will catch the shuttle up to San Jose. To get to Pochutla, you will just have to grab another bus from Puerto. The ADO buses are running super regularly. Just catch the bus from in front of the Puerto Chedraui, or book online.
Once you arrive in town, you will get down from the shuttle and you are pretty much there. No matter where you are staying you will be able to walk there. But the walk can be pretty steep at times. If you want you can take one of the tuk tuks that are all around town. It won't be very expensive and tuk tuks are always fun. But it's possible to walk everywhere in this town if you aren't lazy.
When you are in San Jose del Pacifico and trying to leave you will be able to buy your shuttle tickets here in front of the restaurant.
NO ATM UP HERE EITHER!! BRING CASH — IT'S ALL CASH EVERYWHERE.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
One of my favorite hostels I have stayed anywhere in the world. It is a beautiful hostel built right into the side of the mountain. There are a bunch of different levels, and the thing has just kind of randomly come together over the past few decades from what I heard. Adding more rooms and levels as money was available for the owners to develop it. Due to that it's such a unique spot. Backpackers from all over the world fill the spaces here. It's just amazing and I can't put into words how much I loved it. You have the option of renting a bed in a dorm, or getting a private room for not all that much more. I opted for the private room and was happy with my decision. I would recommend booking online ahead of time, because this is the most popular place to stay. But even if it says 'sold out' online, I would show up and just try to book it when you arrive. That's what I did, and they ended up having space.
The facilities here will be basic, but that's all you need. They have a restaurant on-site serving delicious Oaxacan food, hot chocolate, beer. There will be a bon-fire almost every night, and it's just the best. They also sell mushrooms right at the front desk. I would give this hostel 10 out of 10 stars.
There are lots of places to stay up here in these beautiful mountains. I have one that is certainly my favorite but there are so many good options up here. There is an excellent hostel scene. Granted there are only a few of them. It's not like other hostel towns, these hostels aren't party hostels, but they are like little homes away from homes. Which is the best type of hostel anyways.
If you are coming up here, it very well could be a super-romantic thing to do if you are traveling with a partner or are just in the middle of one of those beautiful travel flings. There are some nice mountain cabin-type options up here too, if you wanted to do something like that. But the town is full of little hotel and hostel options. I am only going to outline a few, an if possible you should book the first one on the list, La Cumbre.
There's not going to be any luxury hotels or anything like that. I also don't know if I met anyone who was doing any camping up here. It's really cold at night. I mean like near the freezing point at night so not many people will be that prepared to camp in this climate especially because we are in Mexico. But people with big rigs that are suited for cold weather living will for sure be able to just park pretty much wherever they want and sleep.
This is an extension of the La Cumbre property. It's probably a 20-minute walk or so from the main hostel grounds, but this option is so awesome. You can hitch-hike pretty easily, or get a taxi. There are these little single-inhabitant domes built into the side of the mountains that are perfect if you are staying with a partner or are a couple. It's so romantic and quiet and relaxing. Moreso than I think anywhere I ever stayed in Mexico. It's a bit more expensive, a bit more remote, but certainly so so memorable.
This one is relatively new. I was actually meant to stay here when I got there because sadly La Cumbre was sold out. It's a little bit on the fancier side. A dorm bed is going to be over 400 pesos. Which is steep. But it's a really nice spot, very comfortable and more like ski-lodge feeling. It's a little bit outside of town actually. You will have to walk along the highway about 10 - 15 minutes to get into San Jose. But if you want something nicer, with heat and guaranteed hot water and a clean bed, this is a good option.
This is another nice little hostel in town. This place and La Cumbre are the only ones in town. It's a small and intimate spot that is a great option if you want to be in town and La Cumbre is sold out. I met a lot of people who had an amazing experience here. No matter where you stay in San Jose, the experience will be amazing.
EATS
I wouldn't say that the main draw of coming to San Jose del Pacifico is going to be the food. Well if you count eating mushrooms then I guess that statement is entirely incorrect but when it comes to sustenance it's not the reason really that people come. However, the food up here is pretty damn good! You're not going to have a million options — it's a super small place. But I had some really great food while I was up here. A few of the places that I went are below.
All of these places will also have Cafe de Olla. It's a traditional type of cinnamon Coffee. Give it a try.
Restaurants
This is the best restaurant in town. It's a really small little place in the middle of town. Which is already tiny so it's hard if not impossible to miss. They have great and cheap food. Great hot chocolate too. Not to miss here.
I found the food to be delicious at La Cumbre. If you are staying here, you will surely eat here for almost every dinner. The food is all cooked in this little warm room that is essentially built right into the mountain. It's awesome and it's fully run by the family that owns the hostel. It's amazing. They have tacos, tlayudas, tortas etc...
I was surprised to even find a place like this up here. But it's a pretty nice Asian cuisine restaurant. The food is really good, the prices are certainly high but it's something different from Mexican food. A nice place to come if you want something different. Delicious sushi and other Asian dishes.
A good spot for breakfast. Especially if you are here waiting for the bus after the hostel checkout or something. Pretty simple food that's not too expensive.
This one is not technically in San Jose. It's a few kms out of town on the way back to the Puerto Escondido area. But it's a beautiful restaurant with a stunning view. The food is good and there's this interesting tourist kind of swing thing that people take pictures on. I never did it — felt weird, but if it's your thing then go for it.
Just outside of town, a great little spot to stop in and have some food and maybe a drink. It has a stunning view. If you are staying at Bostel Rancho Viejo it's just here at the entrance of Rancho Viejo.
NIGHTLIFE
When it comes to nightlife up here there is absolutely nothing going on. You can drink at your hostel, take mushrooms and any of the other crazy drugs you can find up here that I won't go into here on the internet or whatever, but in terms of places to go out it doesn't exist. Sit around a fire, get to know your new friends, drink some rum, tequila, or beers to stay warm, and that's about it. But if you ask me I wouldn't trade my nights around the fire in San Jose for just about anything.
SIGHTS
You are deep in Temazcal country when you are up here. A Temazcal is a traditional prehispanic ceremony in a homemade sweat lodge. It's part sweat lodge, part ceremony. The ceremony should take about 2 hours, and temperatures will reach well well over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius). You will go through a number of stages relating to the earth, and it should be all led by a shaman. Up here is one of the only places I knew of in Mexico where they were actually shaman led. Make sure you find a Temazcal that is led by a Shaman.
This was one of the best things I did in Mexico, and also easily one of the best things I did in San Jose. You will typically not be on any sort of psychedelic enhancement here. You are going to be sober, but by the end of it you will not feel it. It's a euphoric and all-encompassing experience. I couldn't recommend it enough.
In San Jose del Pacifico there is a shaman who is widely considered the best in the area. His name is 'Paco', and he can be reached through his facebook page if he responds. If possible, you should do your ceremony with Paco.
Ceremonies like this have drawn scrutiny due to a level of considered cultural appropriation. In my opinion we are just experiencing the culture of the area. But keep in mind that this is a spiritual experience. Be respectful that this is an important and long-standing aspect of the culture of the area. Don't be a bad tourist.
Just being in San Jose del Pacifico is a sight in itself. Its absolutely stunning. You really couldn't escape the beauty even if you tried as hard as you could. There are lookout points everywhere. Everywhere is a lookout point really.
When it comes to things to do, there are a few really nice hikes. Another town worth visiting. Some traditional ceremonies that I think are once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to partake in. And obviously you should take some mushrooms.
MUSHROOMS
The main reason why everyone comes up here in the first place. To trip on mushrooms. It is certainly the best place I have ever been to do it. Pretty much everyone is and they are "legally" sold all over the place. You can buy your mushrooms right from the front desk at La Cumbre or from a place called Casa Rubi. The best mushrooms (and other things) are going to be able to be bought here. There's plenty of amazing hikes and things to do here. Just go get lost in the forest for a few hours. It's amazing.
BUY SOME MINI MUSHROOMS
Go down into town and support the local ladies making artisan crafts. My favorite thing to buy was these little mushrooms that they are sewing everywhere up here. They are small and you are supporting the local community. An excellent gift or keepsake to remind you of this beautiful place.
There is another really lovely town near San Jose called San Mateo. There are a few ways to get there. You can hike there, and it's stunning, or you can take a tuk tuk. The hike will take you almost all day, and a tuk tuk will take about 30 minutes. It's another small mountain town not dissimilar from San Jose. If you like getting away from the influence of tourism, San Mateo is a really nice alternative to San Jose del Pacifico as well.
NOTHING
Just come and do nothing. Read a book. Sit in a chair and look at the trees. Just do nothing. It's one of the most relaxing places you will ever go. Pace of life is super-slow. So, so mellow. Just come up here, rewind, and don't do anything.
There's a sign just out of town that is also a mirador. It's a nice hike, with a really good view. It's not that long of a hike either so it's a good thing to do for a little in the afternoon. The view is also stunning.
HIKING
There's loads of different hikes that you can do around the area. Ask in your hostel, and they will give you some tips on where you can go. Some are obviously more difficult than others, some long, some short. So depending on what you like to do, you will be able to find it here. Some of the best hiking options can be found here.
SURFING
You in the mountains baby! Nothing going on here.