SALINA CRUZ, MX
Salina Cruz is a moderately-sized city in the southern most part of the state of Oaxaca. The town itself I spent practically no time in, but it is well known as being the town most close to the world-famous Punta Conejo. It's one of the most impressive waves that I have ever seen in my entire life. Punta Conejo is located at the Northern end of the bay at which sits Salina Cruz. That's really what this section is going to be about. Punta Conejo. It won't be anything in depth or anything like that because there really isn't very much to do here at all. Other than to go surfing. The wave at Punta Conejo is quite literally a perfect wave. You would have a hard time finding a more perfect wave anywhere in the world. It's an extremely long and peeling right-hand wave coming off of a point. The rides can go for over 200 meters at least, and longer on big days. By the end of a wave your legs will be on fire just from the sheer amount of time you spend on the wave. It's unbelievable. People come from all over the world just to come sit on this wave and surf it. To get to the wave you will take your car over a massive sand dune and then park on the beach right in front of the wave. It's a pretty cool drive but it is absolutely necessary to have 4-wheel drive. With all that being said there is an important aspect of surfing here that needs to be mentioned. Let's call it, 'The Surf Tax'. When you surf in Southern Oaxaca the locals have realized that the wave is their commodity. Regardless of your opinion on this, and I have had many cerveza-induced conversations about this, it's the way it is. On a lot of the beaches you will have to pay a ~100 peso entry fee to get in every day. Like a tax to get into a national park in North America. Here it is a little bit different. You have entered the part of Southern Oaxaca where you will need to have a guide with you. No matter who you are, you will need a surf guide with you. If you are staying at one of the many surf camps here in the Salina Cruz area, then that will already be taken care of for you. However, if you are just on your own, trying to hoof it cheaply or in your car, you will have to get your own guide. It's a rule, it is extremely strictly followed, and you will be asked to leave the water, at first kindly, and later not so much, if you don't follow this rule. I tried to get around it by having a local, the cousin of the owner of the small hotel I decided to stay at, come with me. It was not taken extremely well in the water when my "guide" was just sitting in a chair next to my car on the beach. These guides can be really expensive as well. I have heard up to about $80 per day. You can try it without a guide, but it probably won't go well. With all that being said the wave is just so amazing. It may be worth it. Especially if it's a good day. If you are down here just to surf and are staying at one of the surf resorts, then you have nothing to worry about and can ignore everything I just said. This wave is synonymous with Southern Oaxaca surfing. It's probably the most famous of all the waves. Sought out by people from all over the world. It's also an extremely beautiful little part of the world. Surfing and nothing else is the goal here. If you are coming in here and not staying at a surf hotel, be prepared for options for food and such to be very limited unless you go down to Salina Cruz the town itself.
LOCATION
Salina Cruz is located all the way at the southern border of the state of Oaxaca. It is actually the last beach destination that the highway will take you to so you have reached the end, essentially of settled coastal Oaxaca. To get here, your options are pretty limited. It's a rural place, and you don't have many transportations methods. Be familiar with Playa Brasil. That is the stretch of beach to the north of Punta Conejo. That is where you will drive in, and that is also where almost all of the accommodation options are.
- FLYING - To get here by flying you will have to fly into the Huatulco airport. There are some direct flights internationally, but you’ll likely have to go through Mexico City first. Then it is a 2-hour shuttle that the surf camp will set up for you. So it's a bit of a mission, but it will be worth it if you are here for a week-long surf trip or something. This option is not cheap. You are coming down for the surf camp anyways so that's okay.
- DRIVING - If you have a car, then you will just drive here. It's the easiest way to get here if you are already in the area without a doubt. To get here, or rather to get to Punta Conejo with a car, you will continue South on the 200. The major highway going down the coast in Oaxaca. You will take the exit when you see the sign for Sal Marina Restaurant. Put "Punta Conejo" or "Playa Brasil" into your downloaded maps and it should be able to take you here. Once you have taken the exit, follow the road all the way to the beach. Then take a left on the dirt road that runs along the beach. Take this road all the way to the left. After you pass Punta Conejo Resort, the road will turn into beach essentially. Take the hard pacl as far as you can staying in between the brush to your left and the mountain at the point to your right. Eventually you will have to take your, 4 WHEEL ONLY, vehicle up over the soft sand of the dune. Keep some speed here because you are going to be going up a sand hill. On the other side of the sand hill you will see other cars parked by the beach and just the most beautiful wave on earth. There should be tire tracks heading into the beach. Follow the ones that involve the least amount of hill. Be prepared, it's not uncommon to get stuck here. Have fun, good luck with the surf guide thing.
- BUS - I am not exactly sure how you even get here by bus. Getting to Salina Cruz by bus is certainly possible. But once you are there you are pretty much on your own getting to Punta Conejo if you are going by foot. Hitch-hiking or taxi is probably your best bet. But to be honest here being on foot won't be the easiest thing in the world. Hitch-hiking is probably the easiest way to get directly here.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
SURF CAMPS
The majority of the accommodation options here are going to be luxury surf camps. They will run about $1k for a few days, or more at the fancy ones. But they will be all-inclusive, easy, and they will get you on all the best waves in the area in a few days. You will score, and it will be an amazing trip. But it won't be cheap. They will take care of everything though — from food, to transportation to alcohol.
There are also a few small hotel options around if you are not going the surf camp route. I know I didn't.
A few recs are below.
Located just up the beach on Playa Brasil. A great option for an all-inclusive surf camp.
A great option for a surf camp with local guides that know exactly what they are doing. You'll get all your meals and everything included and get to stay in their nice surf house while you are here.
The nicest, most expensive, and the closest to the best wave. The price point here is really really high. This is where a lot of the pros stay. It's super nice, just not something I could afford. If you can, go for it.
HOTELS AND OTHER ACCOMMODATION
I stayed at a cheap little spot down the beach in Playa Brasil a little bit. It was basic accommodation. Not remotely a surf hotel or anything like that, but it was cheap. The owner was lovely and woke up at like 5 am to make us coffee and bring his nephew to come be our "surf guide" for like $10. I would stay here again, but if you don't have a car it's probably not an option.
This is a really good and cheap option. It's pretty much a family stay, right on the beach. With 'Ernesto' and his family. It will be a basic room, but with accommodation here this is a great option for the price. His son is also a surf guide so that solves that problem.
Another great little more local option. The accommodation will be pretty good here. There is even a pool. It's pretty aesthetically pleasing here actually. A great way to save money compared to the all-inclusive spots.
EATS
Unless you are in Salina Cruz the food options here will be limited. A few places are below, but depending on where you are staying, you may be eating all of your meals where you are staying.
Restaurants
Cool little spot serving up burgers, and shockingly for this place, some vibes.
The restaurant that you followed the signs to get into the beach. Good local food.
Great little local option with sweet people. Closest food spot to the wave. Probably the biggest and best food option in town as well.
NIGHTLIFE
Literally Nothing.
SIGHTS
Nothing to do here but surf.
SURFING
Okay, so obviously this is the only thing to do here. Like at all. There is nothing in the area that can keep you busy except for surfing. But that's fine. You are going to be getting into more waves than your legs can handle. Surf your heart out here. You are going to get some of the best waves of your entire life.
I am just going to talk about Punta Conejo here. There are waves all over the place in this area. But I am not going to divulge the other ones except for this place and Barra del La Cruz. The other ones are known in the surf community, and are common knowledge down there but I will not write about them. Just expect there to be no less than 10 world-class right point breaks in the area of Southern Oaxaca. Punta Conejo is no different. It is going to be a perfect peeling right-hander. It can go for hundreds of meters, and your legs will hurt after. Absolute leg burners. When it's big it starts to barrel and it's just the most beautiful thing ever. One of those waves you could probably surf for the rest of your life and not need anything else.
Photo: Uriel Camacho
