ENSENADA AREA, MX
Once you have gotten down to Ensenada, you have reached a more authentic version of Baja. But you are not all the way there yet! Here you are an hour-and-a-half south of the border. A lot of the gringo influence and gringo tourists for that matter, typically don't make it down past the areas surrounding Rosarito. Not to say they don't make it down here, but it's just to less of an extent. Compared to Rosarito, Ensenada is a big metropolitan city. Actually the 3rd largest city in the state of Baja. There is also a big port here, a deep water port allowing for shipping from all over the world, and cruise ships which come to dock here. It is important to note that Ensenada is really your last major population center in Northern Baja for quite some time. If you want to stock up on any major essentials, this is your place and this is your time. There's a Walmart, etc. This will also be the last place until you reach La Paz, in the southern tip of Baja, that you can open up your TIP, or get your passport stamped for entry into the country assuming you didn't do it in Tijuana. For me, Ensenada was a pass through. With a stop for some delicious tacos, and some government paperwork. Then we were off, and down to what they refer to as, "The Real Baja". The cities give way to desert, the towns give way to pueblos. There are some things to add about Ensenada town, a few restaurants and some surf sites I will mention here. The pictures of here are not mine. I didn't spend enough time here.
LOCATIONS
El Sauzal is a little town north of Ensenada. It's home to a large fish cannery which will almost immediately notify you that you have reached the area. The smell is hard to miss.
El Sauzal is a bit of a luxury part of town. There are a few luxury high-rise condos right on the beach that seem to come out of nowhere. There's also a few breweries and nice restaurants in this area. As well as some of the best surf spots in the area.
Ensenada is about an hour and a half from the border and Tijuana. Assuming there is no hold-up getting through Tijuana or anything like that. It's a major metropolitan city, and you can find anything that you need here. It's a great spot to stock up on things, or grab a meal from a proper sit-down restaurant before heading south into the unknown in the relatively uncharted world of Baja.
Similar to Rosarito, I will outline a few areas in and around Ensenada. It won't be all that in depth.
South of Ensenada town there is a peninsula called La Bufadora. For the most part it is known as a place with a giant blowhole that crashing waves cause. But over here there are also hikes and beaches and some nice nature activities.
Ensenada town is huge. There's tons of restaurants and things to do. None of which I did because I didn't stay. But if you go and explore, you can certainly find some good food. I only spent about 2 hours here, so I don't have much to offer except for a delicious taco recommendation I will get to below.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
This place is pretty legendary. Almost any old dirtbag Baja surfer you meet will know about Robert's k38, and has probably stayed there. It is probably the best place to find a bed in northern Baja when you are on a budget and want to surf. The place will usually be teeming with other dirty surfers looking for accommodation in the area for cheaper if they aren't camping. It's a great place to meet other surfers, and one of the last places for a long time that has a hostel vibe to it. Nice wave out front as well and you can get away from the Las Gaviotas crowd. If that's what you want.
There is some camping in the area and to get more info on that you should look to iOverlander. There is only one place that I know of well and can recommend for camping. It will be detailed below. I'm not sure what the other housing options look like, but if you are driving through Ensenada and looking for a place to camp, no need to look further than the recommendation below.
EATS
I didn't do a lot of eating my way through Ensenada, but I am sure the food is good. I had a few meals at some places I liked that I will mention, but I don't have much to add here.
Restaurants
This place was cool. And delicious. Especially after a few weeks camping and eating canned tuna. A cool brewery with great food, a good vibe and delicious (not cheap) food.
A small little spot on the drive through Ensenada, that we decided to stop at for some tacos on our way out. — Really delicious, but that's no surprise.
Lots More
As I have said, I spent pretty much no time here so I only had a few meals. — Sure there's lots more to find. Specifically, there are tacos all over the place.
NIGHTLIFE
Didn't experience it. Wouldn't know.
SURFING
There are some nice surf spots in an around the immediate area surrounding Ensenada. I only surfed at one of them, but I will outline a few below. It's different surfing than the rest of the state. I have heard there can be a little bit of localism around here as Ensenada has one of the more developed local surfing communities. I never experienced any of it, as I didn't surf here very much but there were a few spots I heard not to really try to go to. But nonetheless, one of the most notable spots in Northern Baja is just outside of Ensenada.
