COZUMEL, MX
Cozumel to me is a really great place. It's one of my favorite places in the Mexican Caribbean. One of the few places that I actually really would recommend people going to. Especially if you are interested in diving. I guess actually if you aren't coming here to dive, then you will probably, actually certainly, run out of things to do very quickly. Cozumel is a large island off the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. About 2 hours south of Cancun, just off the coast from the tourist hotspot of Playa del Carmen. It's a really big island, running parallel to the coastline. Thus there is a sheltered side, and an unsheltered side. The sheltered side is the part of the island that is developed for tourism. The coast line or the Malecon is really developed actually. It's a port for cruise ships, and so over on that side by where the cruise ships drops off their loads...it's very built up. With modern shops and touristy restaurants. All of the stuff that comes with that. A place to generally avoid. However, a few blocks off the Malecon and on the other side of the island things are more real. I found the town of Cozumel (importantly off the Malecon), and the rural other side of the island to be extremely interesting and fun to explore. There are some great local restaurants, hole in the wall spots, and really interesting streets to walk around. If you get away from the tourism, it's an interesting island. Additionally, which is touristy and totally fine, the diving here is exceptional. Some of my favorite in Mexico. Actually, probably my favorite in Mexico. The island really is a dive island, or at least it used to be before all of the cruise ships. There's tons of dive shops all over the place and a lot of people are here to it. Some of the best drift diving in the world happens out front. It's going to be boat diving, but everything is easy to get to. The diving is incredible and there's lots of different options. You get dropped in the ocean and drift effortlessly over beautiful reefs until you are picked up again by another boat. It's an amazing dive experience, and really unique. There is an important caveat to note about this island and really the entirety of Mexican Caribbean, even down into Belize. It's the sargassum bloom. This is a problem that has presented itself in the last year, and if you haven't heard of it, it causes hundred of thousands of pounds of dead seaweed to wash up on the shore. It's a new problem associated with rising water temperatures they think. It smells absolutely atrocious, and ruins beaches up and down the coastline. This is very much the case in Cozumel. The unsheltered side of the island is covered with more of the sargassum than I have seen anywhere else in the world. It's piled meters high in the sky. Smells so bad that the entire side of the island smells. It has caused businesses to shut, and they are now nothing more than dilapidated and abandoned buildings. It's sad, but the other side of the island is still a really lovely thing to go see. It's really remote, with nothing but some beachfront restaurants and beaches. The best thing that I did on Cozumel was to rent a scooter and drive all the way around the island. It takes most of the day. It's such a beautiful drive, and there's lots of really cool places to stop, grab some drinks, and grab some food. Only negative is that if you are there in sargassum season, you are going to have to deal with the stench, and the hazards of sargassum in the water. Sargassum season is between May and October. It gets worse each year. Cozumel overall is a great place to come visit. To come explore. Dive, explore the other side of the island. It's one of the better places to come visit over here in the Caribbean. It's certainly touristy, but there's a great way to avoid that, well not necessarily entirely, but to avoid the shitty types of cruise ship like tourism.
Cozumel is an island off the coast of Cancun. It's a large island, lying directly off the coast of the popular vacation destination of 'Playa del Carmen'. It's traveled often, and finding it isn't hard. There's really only two different locations that you would be coming from if you are on your way to Cozumel. Either from the south — Tulum or Bacalar, or from the north — Cancun.
Let's start from the North.
FROM THE NORTH, CANCUN - Either way you are going to have to get here from the Cancun bus stop. If you are flying into Cancun you first need to get there. Once you are at the airport you need to find an ADO bus that will take you directly to Playa Del Carmen. The schedule of buses from the airport directly to Playa Del Carmen is here. The other option is to go from the Cancun bus terminal. Same drill, find an ADO bus from there to Playa del Carmen. The trip is going to take you about 2 hours, and will cost ~250 MXP.
FROM THE SOUTH, TULUM OR BACALAR - If you are down here already you just need to get on an ADO bus up to Playa Del Carmen. From Tulum, it's only about 115 pesos to get up to Playa, it should only take about 45 minutes. Just get yourself to the ADO station in Tulum and it's easy enough. If you are coming up from Bacalar, it's the same story, get yourself to the ADO terminal there. It will be a 3-hour journey, and will cost about 500 MXP. A little bit expensive, but it's the best way to get up.
When you arrive at the ADO station in Playa, it's a really easy walk from there to the Ultramar ferry port. It's a 15-minute walk from the ADO to the ferry. It's hot, but not entirely horrible. You can explore a little bit of Playa Del Carmen as well. Although, in my opinion, there's really not much to see. When you get to the ferry, just pretty obviously buy a ticket out to Cozumel, and you will be there about 45 minutes later.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
A very modern-looking hostel right on the Malecon, super close to the ferry. So the location is not my favorite being so close to the Malecon, and everything that comes with it. But it's going to be a super-comfortable and nice place to sleep. It's only going to be $14 a night, and you'll have a nice clean bed. At only $14 for a dorm bed, this will be the nicest accommodation you can get for the price.
There will be tons of hotel and Airbnb options here. The island is almost 100% dedicated to tourism. There's also a few hostels here on the island, and the price point is pretty good. There's not really much of a hostel culture here though. It's not a super-heavily backpacked island. The places mentioned below are the options here, none of them are all that good. But you need somewhere to sleep.
If you are here though another good option would be Airbnb. There's great options, at a good price point. I don't know much about the hotels here though, but I am sure there are nice and expensive ones if that's what you are looking for.
The location here is a lot better in my opinion. It's kind of in the center of town, about 5 blocks back from the water. You are close enough to the water for it to be walkable, but also far enough away to feel like you have gotten away from the tourism. The accommodation here will be pretty basic, but there's a big nice pool, a common area with a pool table, and all that. Probably my top place to stay in Cozumel if you ask me. Will be about $14 for a dorm bed.
A small little hostel located a few blocks back from the Malecon. Also in a good location in the heart of the city. You will be in walking distance to the real Cozumel, and some nice local places to eat and walk around. This place won't be anything special, and the accommodation will be basic, but it's well located, and just fine. About $17 per night in a dorm.
EATS
The eats in Cozumel can be really really good. But you've gotta get yourself off the really touristy Malecon. Really like anywhere in the world this touristy walk is going to have overpriced food that is not really quality at all. Or reminiscent of the local flavor at all. I personally avoid them at all costs. Really the only time that I will go into tourist traps like this is if I need to buy a beer or something while I wait for example a ferry. I would rather not eat not eat in these places, save my appetite for a legitimately good place that is just down the road or waiting to be found, with just a little bit of added effort. The extra effort in finding a local spot will save you money, and your pallet will thank you. So will the local people who rely on this.
The eats in Cozumel can be really, really good. But you've gotta get yourself off the really touristy Malecon. Really like anywhere in the world, this touristy walk is going to have overpriced food that is not really quality at all. Or reminiscent of the local flavor at all. I personally avoid them at all costs. Really the only time that I will go into tourist traps like this is if I need to buy a beer or something while I wait for, for example, a ferry. I would rather not eat in these places, and save my appetite for a legitimately good place that is just down the road or waiting to be found, with just a little bit of added effort. The extra effort in finding a local spot will save you money, and your palate will thank you. So will the local people who rely on this.
Food Options
One of my favorite spots in Cozumel. It's on the colorful walking street 5 Av Nte just in from the Malecon. It's a local spot close to the Malecon, which I try to avoid but this cute little street was great, and they have delicious different types of burritos, and breakfast burritos.
Taco place in town close to the Malecon. It will be a little more touristy given the location, but the tacos are really good. Slightly more expensive, but a nice atmosphere inside, and right in the action.
The market here is a good option for local food —especially for lunch. Like always, the market has a bunch of options.
SIGHTS
So this isn't Mexican food, but it was one of my favorite places I ate in Cozumel. Went back a few times. It's this awesome Italian restaurant and bakery in town. They have delicious pasta, and their 2-story cute spot is great for dinner. Will be more expensive than local flavor options but it's a really cool night and vibe.
Taco spot. There's a lot of taco recs on this list, but these are great. Local spot which serves delicious pastor tacos, and some other options. Plastic plates. Need I continue?
Some of the best tacos on the island. It's a really hard choice to determine the best tacos on Cozumel, but these are always in the conversation.
Local little spot with delicious steak tacos and torts, priced well. Over on Av 65, where there are a lot of other good local spots as well.
Local spot making some of the best pollo rosti on the island. If you are unfamiliar, roasted chicken is a staple in the Caribbean. It's one of the best ways to eat a lot, economically. Full plates here will feed a few, and will be cheap. Over on Av 65 where there are a lot of other good local spots as well.
Spot right next to the airport with really good Baja-style fish tacos.
Delicious pastor and other taco spot. It will be open late, serving great tacos at the right price.
'Cochinita de Pibil', or baby roasted pig, is a delicacy in these parts. It's delicious, and this place does it better than most. Very local, very good, priced right. Over on Av 65, where there are a lot of other good local spots as well.
A colorful and popular spot in the center of town. This will be more popular with tourists as it's closer to the Malecon, and cool-looking inside. But the food is good. A little pricier because of location but still good. Good spot for Cochinita de Pibil. Or 'baby pig', which is a delicacy around these parts.
and many more...
Tons of really cool local places here in Cozumel, get on a scooter, or just have a walk around. Walk into some random and tasty-smelling places, and you won't be disappointed.
NIGHTLIFE
I didn't explore too much of the nightlife here in Cozumel. I was more focused on diving, and just hanging out. There certainly is a nightlife though, and if you stay here for a while then I am sure you will find it much better than I did. A lot of the bars and stuff will be centered around the Malecon, more tailored to tourists and stuff like that. Gringo names, with football-playing and stuff like that. I am sure there is a full nightlife scene outside of that as well, but from my experience that was the majority of the stuff in town.
There's a few bars though, that I will recommend. A few of them on the other side of the island that I would absolutely recommend hitting when you are exploring the other side. They are run-down little Mexican shacks, serving up beers and margaritas, and everything that you associate with Mexico right on the water. They are pretty cool, to be honest. They also have some nice food options, so it's just a good stop in general.
Cool little craft beer spot in town. Nice place to come and have some beers. They have some decent food, too.
Really cool restaurant and bar spot on the cliffs, on the other side of the island. Great place to stop for a snack, or for some drinks when exploring the other side of the island.
Amazing and such a memorable little shack on the east side of the island. It's this run-down little shack, making delicious mojitos — with hammocks everywhere for people to relax. Just an awesome vibe — a 'must do' in Cozumel.
I have mentioned it s few times here, but the diving in Cozumel is really something to be talked about. I just loved it. The reefs are pretty vibrant, and you can see lots of turtles and stuff, but the coolest part about the diving here are the drift dives. The current is so strong that it will just float you over the reef pretty rapidly, you just get picked up by your boat a ways down the island after effortlessly floating over the reef. It's super-cool. — Would highly recommend diving here, to anyone who does dive. There are so many dive shops. Some notable ones are Cozumel Divers, Scuba XOC, and Scuba Tony. There's tons more, I just heard of those.
Cozumel is a big island, with lots to explore. There's also amazing diving here. Some of my favorite in the whole of the Caribbean. So there are plenty of things to do. The east side of the island is almost entirely uninhabited, and therefore a really cool part of Cozumel to explore.
I will get into it below a little more, but I just wanted to reiterate it because I really enjoyed exploring over there. You have to rent a scooter, but I would recommend in general getting a scooter. The island is really big, and I wouldn't say it's walkable, unless you just stay near the Malecon, which I don't recommend at all. So get a scooter for a few days, and the possibilities of things to do on the island really explodes.
I mentioned this above, but the island is really big. Even the town is pretty big, so getting around can be difficult if you are just on foot. Rent a scooter. They are really not all that expensive, and will allow you to see the island in such a better way. There's scooter rental places all over, but I chose this one. It was a fine choice.
The far east side of the island is hardly inhabited, and it's really so beautiful. I found it to be one of the most memorable things that I did during my time in the Mexican Caribbean actually. There's stunning views of the cliffy and beachy coastline, some awesome little spots to eat and get some drinks, and a few beautiful beaches. Let alone it's just an awesome scooter ride around the island.
EAT LOCAL
There's tons of great local eating here in Cozumel, which is kind of unique for a place that has a cruise ship port. Go on a food tour throughout the center of town. Remember, stay away from the Malecon, and the food offerings that are over there.
You in the flat, flat Caribbean. Nothing happening here.
SURFING