Santa catalina, pa
Santa Catalina was one of my favorite little places in Panama. It has a lot of my favorite things in the world. A handful of things that I think most of the people reading this will also be interested in. Santa Catalina has excellent waves, beautiful beaches, world-class diving, and some of the best sunsets that you will ever see in your life. It's a beautiful and rural place. It's not the easiest place to get to either, which I think is one reason that it's stayed small and kept a lot of charm. While the place is changing, as travel continues to popularize and these little amazing towns get discovered, it's a small little community that you could spend a few days or a few weeks in. With that being said, it's tiny enough to understand almost immediately. It's located out on Panama's Pacific coast. Down dirt and windy little roads that aren't really anywhere near a main highway. It's about an hour-and-a-half down a windy country road to get out to the coastal Santa Catalina. So it's not super easy to get to. Additionally, it's not near any large towns so the journey to get there from wherever you likely are is going to be pretty long. In my opinion though, it is more than worth it. Santa Catalina is located at the front door of Coiba National Park. — Probably the most beautiful islands in Panama's Pacific. I was honestly blown away with the beauty I witnessed out here. In addition to being just beautiful on the surface, the entire National Park is a protected marine reserve, creating and underwater wonder as well. Of all the places that I have dove (and I haven't, at the time of writing this, yet been to the Galapagos or the Red Sea), Santa Catalina and Coiba National Park are the best I have done anywhere in the world. The big fish diving here is unparalleled to anything I have seen. You can be on a single dive and see a hammerhead, a school of jacks 2,000 strong, and a few mantas. It's really just amazing. There is even a season for whale sharks and rarely they see orcas from what I have heard. There will be more on the diving later, but there are also excellent waves here in Santa Catalina. Amazing point breaks that will stack up to anywhere in the world when the swell direction, size and season are working. It's also a lovely place to come and learn or improve. There's a really forgiving wave out front that is perfect for just trying to get better. So in short, Santa Catalina is a lovely, quiet town with lots to do, and it's got a pace of life that's really enticing. There won't be a lot to do, and if you find yourself getting bored with a small town and little to do from that perspective, maybe only come for a few days, but if that's what you like, then this place is right up your alley.
Santa Catalina is located all the way on the rural west coast, or rather, Pacific Coast of Panama. Far from a lot of the main touristic destinations like the city, or Bocas Del Toro. The rural west coast was one of my favorite places to be in the country, especially because of how rural and free it was. You are free to drive on the beaches, camp safely and freely on beaches, and explore kind of lawlessly. Not dissimilar from much of Nicaragua's Pacific or Baja California. It's just a little paradise. That being said, it's not the easiest place to get to. There will be no nearby airports, and without your own car it's going to be shuttle or bus transportations. But, those aren't really all that hard either. I will just talk about it from Boquete, Bocas, and Panama City.
BY SHUTTLE -
- From Boquete - There's a daily shuttle service from Boquete, which makes it extremely easy to get here. The ride will take about 5 hours, and cost $35. It's easy, it's not that expensive, and it takes away the hassle of some pretty brutal bus transfers. You can book your shuttle here.
- From Bocas Del Toro - There is no shuttle service. I would recommend, on your way over to Santa Catalina if you are in Bocas, making first a stop in Boquete.
- From Panama City - No shuttle service directly here. Bus is your only option.
BY BUS -
- From Boquete - It's a long shitty journey. Just take the shuttle, you won't save much money anyways.
- From Bocas Del Toro - There is no direct bus from Bocas. You have to obviously get on a boat over to Almirante. From Almirante you need to get to Sona. It's going to be a long and annoying journey to get here by bus and boat and taxi. There is no direct bus to Sona, so you have to take a bus from Almirante to El Prado. — A tiny place, and from there you need to get a taxi to Soná. From Sona, five buses to Santa Catalina a day, and it takes about 2 hours. The whole trip will take about 10 hours at least, and cost like $40. This journey sucks. Just go to Boquete first.
- From Panama City - There is no direct bus from Panama City. It's going to be a long and annoying journey to get here by bus. But it's certainly the cheapest option. First you need to make your way to Albrook Bus Terminal. Direct routes aren't available, so you have to transfer in Sona or Santiago. I would recommend just heading to Sona. It's closer to the road that goes to Santa Catalina. There are five daily buses, and the trip from Panama City takes about 4 hours. The earliest departure is at 5:50 AM, and the latest at 5:45 PM. From Sona, five buses to Santa Catalina a day, and it takes about 2 hours. The whole trip will take about 6-and-a-half hours at least, and cost like $15.
BY CAR -
- Certainly the easiest way to get here. If you have your own vehicle. Off of the main highway 5, if you are driving in Panama you will be familiar with it. It's the only highway that goes up and down the country, you have to exit at Carr. 34 in the town of Sona. Then you just take that windy road all the way in. Maps are easy and correct to get here. Last gas point here that I remember, so fill up.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
It's a small town, so the housing options aren't endless. But there are a few hotels, a few little hostels, and if you are traveling by car there are some nice places that you can park and sleep in your rig.
There's some little places on the beach that will let you park on their property, and there are also wild spots that you can find if you want to drive a little bit away from town that will be cool and really safe. The rural Panamanian West is perfect for wild beach camping.
Beyond where I mention, there's lots of little hotels and hospedajes, so if you want to find a cheap room somewhere, it's very, very possible.
This is where I stayed. I think it's a nice place to stay if you are traveling with a partner. It's right on the main corner of town, and close to the beach and everything. They have basic private rooms with AC that are cheap, and have everything you need. A nice little cafe downstairs as well, and it's right above the tienda. They have dorms as well.
Hotel and hostel with a pool that's just up the road from the center of town. It's a nice place, and going to be full of surfers. More social than a lot of other places too, because there will be lots of surfer types running around.
Probably the coolest place to stay in town. It's all the way outside of town, but right in front of one of the best waves in Santa Catalina. It's a super-large property on the beach with a beach bar, that is also probably the only place in town you can find to really go out at night. It's going to be social, right in front of the wave, and is just generally a great spot.
THEY ALSO OFFER PARKING HERE IF YOU ARE WITH A RIG AND WANT SOMEWHERE TO SLEEP.
Kind of a nicer little spot up the road in Santa Catalina. It's pretty much in-line with the dorm prices everywhere else, but here you are about a 5-minute walk from the beach — which isn't bad, but the others are closer.
I didn't really notice this place when I was in town, but after looking around on the internet this is an amazing and cheap option. Dorms are like $14, and it looks pretty amazing. Great location in the middle of town, and there's a restaurant in front that's pretty good as well. A great option.
EATS
Santa Catalina is slowly turning into a pretty established place to visit on the backpacking trail while you are in Panama. It's already been for quite a long time, a very established spot for divers, but the draw is starting to expand. As a result, the town is growing as well. With that growth, a lot of the people who have decided to make this place home from other places have come and opened up restaurants.
Here in Santa Catalina you can find really good local food, but there's also going to be options that will satisfy the western world cravings. You can find places here for brunch, pizza, and iced coffee. All that kind of stuff.
Restaurants
Great little local spot with traditional plates and seafood. It's right by the water so it's a nice place to stop for some food on your way from the beach.
A nice little restaurant spot right on the water. It's popular for sunset to come down and grab some beers, and they also have good food and pasta.
This is a little breakfast and brunch spot where you can go and get a nice coffee, and get your acai bowl or avocado toast fix.
My favorite little local restaurant to grab a local plate. It's pretty much someone's house, and the ladies cooking are super nice. It's cheap and delicious.
Awesome spot that does all the meals well. They are also a bakery. Good breakfast, good lunch, and great pizza at night.
Cool little tapas spot tucked away under a little palapa. The food isn't super cheap but it's tasty and the setting is really nice.
The best pizza in town, and probably the most popular restaurant around. It's always full with people, and the food and vibes are great.
Great little ice cream place down a dirt road inside of town. It's got a cool little setting, and it's also next to the best pizza in town.
— So great place to go for dessert.
Argentinian steakhouse that has some pretty good meat plates and burgers. It won't be the cheapest thing that you ever have, but it's good.
NIGHTLIFE
There is not much of a nightlife scene in Santa Catalina. I would say that most people are too tired from the long day of diving. It's a really long day that includes a 2-hour boat ride each way and 3 dives, or they are here to just chill. But that isn't to say there isn't anywhere to go out.
On the weekends you will be able to find some parties, and there's a few different places that you can find that will be proper parties, and there's a few little spots to go grab drinks. I won't have much advice here, cause well, it doesn't exist but there's a few things to do.
Bars and Clubs
This is more of a restaurant, but it's a nice place to go and get a beer during sunset.
A restaurant and a hostel, that also doubles as a bar. It won't be anything special, but they have a bar.
This is the only place to find any real party in Santa Catalina. It was either once a weekend, or every other weekend they have a big party at their little beach-bar on the property. They have a DJ, and it's full of all the people in town. If you are here on a weekend, make sure not to miss it.
SIGHTS
There aren't a lot of things to do and see in Santa Catalina. Well I guess there is. The national park of Coiba is an amazing place to visit, and there's tons out there to do and see, but in reality it is just one thing.
There's also lots of surfing, but outside of surfing, diving, and getting on the boat to the national park, your job here in Santa Catalina is to chill by the ocean.
The diving in Santa Catalina is really world class. I mentioned it above, but it's probably some of the best big fish-diving that I have ever done. It's possible to, on one dive see a hammerhead, a school of 2,000 jacks, a whale shark, all alongside a gigantic and impressible coral wall. It's just amazing. All of the diving though happens out at Coiba National Park. The park is quite a hike from the town of Santa Catalina. All the dive shops are also located there, and there are none on the islands of the national park, as it is totally protected. So getting to the park where you are going to dive is about an hour-and-a-half drive.
The dive days are long, you get out there by boat, you dive three times during the day then around sunset you come back for another hour-and-a-half boat ride in the small lanchas that transport you. They provide lunch as well, but given all the fuel and the 3 dives, it gets really expensive. It's around $300 for a 3 tank dive. This is the kind of diving though that people come to as a destination spot. It's not just any old fun diving. So it's worth it if you are an avid diver and can afford it.
There's a handful of dive shops in town. I went with Panama Dive Center. They had great equipment and solid dive masters. It's a bit more on the serious side of diving, as that can go both ways. If you want something a little more mellow then I would recommend you go to Scuba Coiba or Coiba Dive Center.
If you aren't a diver, I still highly recommend you take a day trip out to Coiba National Park on a scuba tour. It's some really stunning ocean and beach out there. Some of the most surprised I have ever been with natural beauty. I didn't know that Pacific Ocean Islands could have sand that white, and water that blue. A snorkel trip is going to be a lot cheaper than diving, but still not cheap. — Will run you about $90 for the full day. But you are here, if you didn't go out to Coiba, you are seriously missing the point.
SURF
The waves here are great, and they are amenable to every different skill set. If you like big waves make sure you come during the right season, and vice versa. More on that in the surfing section.
Photo Credit
SUNSET
Don't know if I really need to write this, but make sure you go and watch a sunset in Coiba. I would be surprised if you were here and you missed it, but hey, you never know. They are absolutely epic, — some of my favorites in memory.
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There is a little island a few hundred meters from the shores of Santa Catalina. It's an awesome day to rent a kayak and head over there for the day with some beers and food. It's an easy kayak, and something really fun to do.
Photo Credit: Journey Era
Another island that's within an hour from Santa Catalina is Cebaco. It's a great spot to do some whale-watching, and it's also really beautiful!
Photo Credit: Journey Era
WHALE WATCHING
Depending on the time of year there can be great whale-watching in these parts. If you are not a water person and don't dive either, it's a good way to get your eyes on some wildlife without getting wet. — Nerd.
SURFING
Surfing in Santa Catalina is probably the most famous on the entire Pacific Coast. That doesn't necessarily mean that it's the best, but it's certainly the most popular. Most of the other really good spots on the Pacific Coast are hard to get to, and pretty low key in the surf community. So I am not going to get into any of them, — if you figure them out on your own then good for you. There's also plenty of other surf blogs that have blown the spots up. But I will get into Santa Catalina.
Santa Catalina has a few waves, and they work for every skill-set. Theres a high performance wave that handles really big waves, and is honestly a pretty god-damn perfect right hand point break. I have never seen it with its full size potential, but some friends have shown me pictures of them when they made their way over for swells, and I was blown away. It's a big, hollow, peeling right hander that looks pretty mellow all things considered. So there's that. It's called La Punta. It's a little bit more localized so if you are going to paddle out there, make sure that you have your etiquette hat on. Well, you should always be out there respecting the locals and giving them waves but here I have heard, especially when it's good, be polite.
It's also a really, really good spot to come and learn. There's a long flat sandy beach called 'Playa Estero' that has little dribblers that are perfect for learners or people who want to improve. So Santa Catalina is a good spot for anyone wanting to surf. And the conditions in general are great. Warm water, sunshine, warm air, never too much wind.
The season here is Feb. to Aug. That's when it's biggest at least. This coincides with the rainy season. There will be waves all year long, but the rainy season is going to bring with it the best waves. This is the story for the majority of the Pacific Coast of Central America. Well, the whole thing.
Estero Beach
This is the learning beach, where you come if you either don't know how to surf, want to improve, or are giving your partner a surf lesson. The waves are small, manageable, and the sand bottom makes everything really forgiving for learners.
La Punta
La Punta is the best and most famous wave in Santa Catalina. It really is what put Santa Catalina on the map for surfing. It's consistent, but works best in the wet season from Feb. through October, — but really more August. It's a peeling right hander, that will barrel when big enough. Be on the lookout for the locals here and respect them. It's a beautiful wave, and it's theirs.
Best to surf mid to high-tide here. Take care of the rocks at low tide, they can be hazardous.