san juan del sur, ni
If you go traveling in Nicaragua or are even talking about doing so, San Juan Del Sur is likely one of the first names that you are going to hear. It has become the backpacker hub of the country. It's certainly established. There are western style restaurants and bars lining the paved streets of the crowded coastal party town. It wasn’t my favorite place in the world. In a country so authentic, and uniquely, well... Nicaraguan, San Juan Del Sur for me personally was an unwelcome breath of polluted air. The town however, will allow you to come in contact with some of the creature comforts that you have maybe come to miss if you have spent a lot of time in the county. There are restaurants, comfortable lodging options, art galleries, western amenities, etc. I have mixed feelings about San Juan Del Sur. It's developed and comfortable as a backpacker, but a notable departure from what for me was so magical about Nicaragua. There's also this odd feeling of seediness in the town to me. It's hard to put my finger on, but there's a lot of expats that have been living here for a long time. A lot of them, having lived here for a long time, appear to have gotten lost in the sauce. Or more over, the dust if you know what I mean. There's a large contingent of rather strung out people here and it, for me gave the city an odd type of feeling. Now San Juan is a fun place. You'll find lots of partying, and if that's what you want to do then this is your place. But it wasn't my favorite place in the country. It was however, a nice place to come and get a taste of civilization. The beaches in San Juan themself aren't all that nice either. Additionally, the surf in San Juan itself isn't really all that good. It's much better in different parts of the country. Back to my point of, if you want to come here and party, then come here.
San Juan is the tourist center of the country so it's not very hard to get to. It's one of the most southern points in the country that anyone comes to. Far in the southwestern part of the country. It's either your first stop up from Costa Rica, or your final stop on the way down. A couple different places to come from and get here are below:
- SAN JOSE CR TO SAN JUAN BY SHUTTLE - There's a convenient shuttle from San Jose here. The shuttle costs $72, and take 7 hours including the border crossing. You get picked up at 5am, and you're at your hostel or hotel by around noon.
- GRANADA TO SAN JUAN BY SHUTTLE - The shuttle from Granada to San Juan is pretty easy. If you try to take public transport it's going to be a confusing few transfers through Rivas. Feel free to look into that, but the shuttle is easy and only $25. It only takes about 3 hours, as compared to at least 5 on public transport.
DRIVING YOURSELF - If you are driving yourself it's easy enough to get here. The roads are paved. The main town to take note of is Rivas. When you go through Rivas you have to turn coastal and head towards San Juan Del Sur.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
There's a fully operating hostel culture and scene here. Just like a lot of the towns that are worth visiting as a backpacker in Nicaragua.
Here you have your party hostel, your chill surf hostels, and your cheap shitholes.
There's a few places as well to find cheap and nice privates if you are over the dorms or traveling with a partner.
One of the party hostels of the bunch. This is one of the stops along the bar crawl that is famous among backpackers here called 'Sunday Funday'. It's going to have a pretty low age-range and be full of kids wanting to get drunk all the time. That being said, if that's what you are looking for this place is super-social, cheap, and will be fun.
I stayed here and I frankly found it pretty weird. I thought it was going to be much better based off the reviews, but it's quite a ways out of town, and was fully empty when I was there. I don't know... maybe I had a weird experience, but I didn't like it. I wouldn't stay there again.
A place that looks relatively new. I don't remember it when I was there, but it looks really nice, and isn't all that expensive. A nice place to give a try.
A big hostel in the middle of town. It's well-located, and a nice place to sleep. I would say this is a good option if you just want a comfortable, well-priced and located place to sleep. Not much more going on here.
This is the only option that is actually outside of San Juan del Sur. I will talk about Maderas a little later but it's the mellow little beach-town a little to the North of San Juan. It's way more laid back and chill, and if you want to go relax, this is the spot. Nice waves, and Hush is lovely looking. — Won't be the cheapest thing ever, but it will be relaxing.
Another party-centric option here in San Juan. It will be a nice and fun time. Not the best location here as it's about a 5 minute walk from the center, but it's not that bad.
EATS
Lots of good and diverse food options throughout San Juan Del Sur. It's probably the only coastal destination in Nicaragua with a wide and international array of options to eat.
There's a lot of restaurants on the beach, but they are all pretty tourist-trappy, and I would avoid them.
Restaurants
Great little cafe that also sells cool shirts and clothes.
Super-cute little cafe spot that also doubles as an art gallery. Good brekkies and sandwiches and stuff. Nice place to just hang, too.
Little vegan cafe spot for all you leafy folks.
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Nice shawarma spot.
Healthy and airy cafe spot for some food that feels fresh and all that.
Good Mexican option. They have margaritas, and tacos, and all that shit. Not the best food you'll ever eat, but it's a nice atmosphere and easy.
Mellow little spot right near the water. Chill, with good breakfasts and a nice view.
Food court, hall, — whatever you want to call it, that is in a garden-like setting. A bunch of different restaurants in here. They have sushi options, pizza, empanadas. It's one of the best places to go if you're with a group who can't decide on anything. (Like most groups.)
Super- solid cafe and breakfast spot. Coffees, paninis. Good stuff.
NIGHTLIFE
The nightlife is why a lot of people come to San Juan Del Sur, and the further reason why a lot of people stay and get stuck. There is plenty to do, always a new crop of backpackers coming through who are ready to get going, and it's just your typical beach backpacking party town.
There's also the famous 'Sunday Funday', which is the inspiration behind 'Filthy Friday' in Bocas. It's a hostel pool and bar crawl that attracts all the country's young backpackers who are on their booze-cruise through Central America.
A lot of the partying will happen at the hostels as well.
Bars and Clubs
The brewery in town. They have good beers and a nice atmosphere, with live music sometimes.
A pretty grungy expat bar with some interesting characters running around at all times. No matter what day of the week you go, someone will be getting drunk in here.
Corner bar on the street for drinks. Nice place to come and have some during the middle of the day.
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A skate shop and cafe that is also a little bar. Chill place to come hang.
This spot has a little skatepark in the back. It can get crowded with locals, and skaters, and travelers. Drinking around skateparks is always fun.
The reason a lot of people come. This is an all-day hostel pool and bar crawl that is pretty legendary along the backpacker circuit, in all honesty. It will be very young and full of drunk early 20 somethings, I elected not to go. But if you want an all-day party, then this is your thing.
SIGHTS
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Mexican restaurant that is also a bar. People come and get pretty drunk here. Very very expatty though.
Little bar that's clearly expat owned. A Canadian flag on the wall. But they have live music here sometimes, and it's a fine bar to come in.
Bar on the corner of the main street. Nothing special, but it's a bar.
There's not a whole lot to do in San Juan del Sur outside of party, eat and just walk around. The beach out front is in my opinion, terrible. So for me, the things to do here are to go and check out the surrounding beaches. That's where the surfing will be as well.
Not a ton do here though for touristic sights to see.
This beach should probably have its own section. It's its own little town and area. But I did not go there, so I can't say much about it. I heard good things from people, and it's apparently very relaxing and beautiful. Nice waves, too.
Next beach north from San Juan del Sur. Going to be a lot cleaner, and a lot less crowded than the dirty and crowded beach of San Juan.
Beautiful and secluded white sand beach, right before you arrive at Playa Maderas.
The famous hostel pool and bar crawl that goes on here every Sunday. It's famous on the backpacker circuit, and people that I have met have told me the only reason they came to Nicaragua in the first place was for this. I find that ridiculous. The party will be full of kids in their early teens, so be prepared for a rather young affair.
If you are into this, then you can climb up to the top of the mountain at the North side of the bay. In classic Latin American style there is a massive statue of Jesus, watching over all the gringos partying.
SURFING
A lot of people come to San Juan del Sur thinking they are coming to a surfing destination. For me, the destination is far to the north in the Popoyo area, and not here. There is no wave in San Juan del Sur, so you must travel out of San Juan del Sur to get to waves. This just becomes an expensive and irritating thing to have to do every day. Especially if you don't have your own transportation.
There are a lot of waves to the north and south of San Juan del Sur. For the most part though, I would say that these waves are more suitable for people trying to learn. — Not all of them, but certainly Maderas, which is probably the closest one.
I have gone into some of the waves below that are in the area but for me, there's much better surfing up in the north. In addition to these, there's lots of hush hush waves as always. But I didn't spend much time surfing in the immediate vicinity of San Juan.
