puerto viejo, CR
This will be the only entry from Costa Rica's Caribbean side. A side that is far too often ignored for the much more touristic Pacific side. I would venture to say that there are a lot of people who come to Costa Rica who have no clue that this place, or the Caribbean side as a whole for that matter even exists. When it comes to people not coming here, I think that is totally fine. It's already pretty heavily visited, but nothing like the other side of Costa Rica. As a result, Puerto Viejo, and the strong and noticeable Caribbean influences here, was one of my favorite places in Costa Rica. Other than Pavones on the Pacific I would say it was my favorite part of Costa Rica. Pavones isn't even a real town anyways, so I would say that Puerto Viejo is my favorite town in Costa Rica. Puerto Viejo is much more of a traveler town compared to a tourist town. There is a distinct difference, and I always look for the traveler towns. At least that's where I always feel most at home. Puerto Viejo has a lot of the things I look for in a place. It has great waves, beautiful beaches, warm blue water, good food, a nightlife scene, lots of good hostels, tons of travelers, and it's cheap (as compared to the rest of Costa Rica only). For a lot of people, this place is the portal to or from Panama. It's the closest bigger city to the border of Panama at Sixaola. The most popular land border to cross from Panama to Colombia. I have done this border both on foot a few times, and with the car. It's easy enough, so long as you know where you are going. My first time I remember being really overwhelmed and nervous. It was one of my first times in Latin America and the men with guns and language at the time both confused and scared me. But there's no need to be afraid or uncomfortable. Puerto Viejo is a small town, with Caribbean charm and colors everywhere. Given it's the Caribbean, there's also going to be a lot more English-speaking because that's just how it is in the Caribbean in a lot of places. It's one main street with restaurants, bars, shops and hostels. It's small enough to really get your hand around in a few days. — Find your favorite spots and all that. Then outside of the town of Puerto Viejo, to the south you have one of my favorite parts. The beaches to the south, — specifically Playa Cocles and Manzanillo, are lovely. Long white sand beaches with Caribbean palm tree backdrops. — Just amazing. You can walk there, bike there or easily find a tuk tuk or taxi. It's where I would spend my beach time. Additionally there's a lot of cool restaurants and places to sleep over in between town and the beach.
Puerto Viejo is located at the far southeastern point of Costa Rica. It's only about a 45-minute drive from the most popular land border between Costa Rica and Panama, Sixaola. The majority of backpackers who are here, and I would say the majority of travelers coming through here are backpackers, are either on their way up from Panama or on their way down to Panama. The proximity to the border is probably one of the reasons this place is popular among the bootstrapping backpacking types. Puerto Viejo is hot, humid, can be rainy, and is very much a Caribbean beach town.
Getting to Puerto Viejo is simple.
BY BUS - You're either going to be coming from San Jose or Bocas.
- From San Jose - The bus situation is really easy. There's a bus stop right in town. The bus comes directly from San Jose. Now it's going to make some stops, but the bus is super simple. You just take the MEPE bus from the station in San Jose. You can either book tickets online, or when you get there. If you want on the morning one I would recommend booking in advance because they can fill up. The bus will take about 5 hours, and cost you $14.
- From Bocas del Toro - The other option is to come up from Bocas Del Toro. If you are in Bocas, then you already know about Almirante. Paradise, in other words. First thing you need to do is get there. From Almirante you have to catch a bus from town here, to Guabito. Guabito is the Panamanian side of Sixaola so it is the border. Keep your wits about you in Guabito if you are taking public transport. You need to get yourself across the border. To do that you need to get an exit stamp from this office, where the pin is exactly. Then you just walk across the bridge here. On the other side you have no other choice but to go through customs so it's easy. Then you are into Costa Rica. You will have to pick up a bus on the other side. The schedule is here, and Sixaola is tiny so it's easy to find the buses here. Hop on the bus and you are there. — Sounds easy, but the land-crossing here sucks.
BY SHUTTLE
- From San Jose - I simply recommend the bus, — it's much easier and cheaper.
- From Bocas - I actually recommend the shuttle here. It's much much simpler, and you will save a bunch of time. They will drop you off at the border, do the border processing for you and they will then pick you up and take you to Puerto Viejo on the other side. It's also not much more expensive than the bus would be. Here is a link to book a shuttle.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
There's a lot a lot of hostel options here. I stayed at a few of them but heard about a lot more. So I will get into a lot of the different staying places.
They vary widely here. There's your fleabag spots that are dirt cheap and shitty, but fun. Then you also have the other side of the coin here that are really nice and tailored to the digital nomads of the world. Nice rooms, wicked fast wifi, good restaurant in house, and all that stuff. I will throw in a bit of it all.
I am not totally sure if this place has dorm beds, but it has really cheap private rooms. I stayed here for like a week. The rooms are small, poorly ventilated, and not very nice. But it's really cheap, and you can't beat it from a location perspective. They also have a really great bar inside, and lots of couches in a big common area. So it's high on my list of recommendations here.
The party-ish hostel here. It's not going to be very nice, but it will be cheap. They also have a big deck full of tents where you can rent a tent. So it's that kind of a place. But they will also probably have shitty dorms, but it's really cheap and also super-social. Right on the beach. It has TERRIBLE reviews, because it is pretty shitty, but it's notorious.
Another option that isn't exactly a hostel. I was traveling with my partner, so we were on the hunt for private rooms. This place had really good private rooms for a great price. We wanted to stay here longer, but it was all booked up.
This place is an excellent option, but it isn't directly in Puerto Viejo. It's slightly out of the way, but it's an amazing, amazing hostel. I went here for drinks and just to chill at the beach, and if you are fine not staying in the actual town of Puerto Viejo, I highly recommend this place.
Small little hostel right in town. It's one of the best ones in town, but it's going to be a little bit on the pricier side at $20 for a dorm.
Another good but small little spot right in town. It's really social and well done. I would recommend this place if you like intimate hostels.
The only hostel right in town that's on the beach. Dorms are cheap, and the location is hard to beat on the beach, and in town. $16 a night.
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I have absolutely no idea why this place has such a bad rating on HostelWorld. I absolutely loved it. It's a little jungle hostel outside of town. It's tucked up in the forest, and it's just really tranquil and sweet. It's pretty hard to get to, — up a dirt road, but I found it to be really lovely. Worth a stay, ignore the HostelWorld rating. — Super cheap, $12.
EATS
Food everywhere here in Puerto Viejo. It's super good. Maybe some of my favorite food that I have had in a little traveling town actually, and I am not entirely sure why that is. But people from all over the place and locals alike have opened up really, really tasty food spots here.
Lots to try, and I won't even scratch the surface here, but I'll try.
Restaurants
Probably the most popular spot here in Puerto Viejo. It's a breakfast and brunch spot that gets packed almost every day — especially the weekend. I have seen lines here.
My favorite spot for breakfast was this little art cafe. They have excellent breakfasts, and super fresh juices. Also a great 2nd-floor view, and it's right by the water.
Italian place on the corner that has good pizza and pasta. It's not super-cheap, but if you're in the mood it's good.
If you listen to one recommendation here on this list, it's this place. It's far out of town, but this was a really amazing little healthy food spot on the side of the road on the way to Manzanillo.
Best local food in town. It's a must-try. They have all the typical Caribbean plates. — Super fun atmosphere as well.
Another really delicious place for local Caribbean food.
Bar and restaurant on the beach. I only ever went here for a beer.
I found the food overpriced, but I hear it's good.
A really good spot for some breakfast right on the water, off the main street.
Awesome little bakery. Great bread and breakfasts and smoothies and such. Crowded in the mornings.
Beach bar and restaurant owned by an American guy. They have really delicious burgers, and their food in general was awesome. It's super-gringo, but I loved their food and the surf/beach bar vibe.
Great Asian-Caribbean fusion, right on the beach out by Playa Cocles.
I am not sure how or why, but some of the best Indian food and butter chicken that I have ever tried in my entire life is here in Puerto Viejo. It's here. A must try. — Not cheap, but if you love Indian food you really should try it.
If you want sushi, this is the spot.
If you want something more upscale you can come here. There is also a sloth that frequently climbs across the ceiling during dinner.
Tiny little burger place, with good food that's easy and pretty quick.
NIGHTLIFE
There is a really good and bustling nightlife culture here. I was here for New Year's so it was even more crazy than normal but there are a good amount of places to go out and party in Puerto Viejo. The vast majority of it is going to be centered around the same block or corner, but it's a good time out here in Puerto Viejo.
Also lots of little beach bars and places to pop into for just a drink that aren't necessarily big nightlife spots.
There's a lot of places not on this list, and sometimes the best thing to do is go to the beach with your own. So explore, but if you go to any of these places you will be able to get a start on a night out. Or a day.
Bars and Clubs
Live music spot, bar and restaurant on the main corner that is probably the hub of nightlife here in Puerto. It's fun, and the party spills out onto the street which is always fun.
The absolute best place to come get a drink during the day, and my favorite place for beers in town. Right on the water, and a super-chill and mellow vibe.
For when things get real late. This place is always pumping late at night. The party spills out onto the beach in front, and inside has really loud reggaeton music when it's open.
Little Irish pub tucked into town that has nice vibes to just sit in and waste away with some beers.
Restaurant that's also a pretty nice place to have some drinks.
Beach bar out on the way to Cocles. It's going to be full of guys and girls from the States, but they have nice drinks and good happy hour deals. Always a few people trying to get messy here as well.
SIGHTS
The area surrounding Puerto Viejo is really stunning. When you come here you also aren't just coming here, there's a few beaches and places that are a bit of a drive out of town that are truly 'must visits' when you are here. Those places are below.
In addition there's some hikes, nature-related things, and an excellent animal refuge here that you can go to if you can afford it and find that interesting.
A beautiful big white sand stretching beach about 10 minutes to the south of Puerto Viejo. It's much nicer than the beach in Puerto Viejo, so if you want the beach I would come here. — Also where you should go if you are looking to surf as a beginner.
LOOK AT A SLOTH
Keep your eyes peeled and move slow, because there are sloths everywhere. Typically you can tell when a sloth is near, because a group of idiot tourists will be huddled around a tree staring at the sky. But you may even be able to spot one on your own.
A beautiful but ultimately touristy beach at the end of the road that passes through Puerto Viejo. It's stunning, as you can see from the picture, but it can get pretty crowded with people. There's also a few restaurants right there on the beach, which makes it much easier for people to congregate. — But certainly worth a visit.
Another beach to the south of Puerto Viejo that is worth checking out. Realistically you can do all of the beaches to the south in a day if you are pressed for time, but I would take my time if you can. They are all unique and great.
There's a jaguar rescue center here as well. It's really expensive to go, — like $30. At least that was expensive to me considering my accommodation was on $12. But all the money goes towards keeping the rescue center up and running, which does a lot more than just jaguars. Also if you want to see a jaguar, that's pretty cool as well.
Nearby Puerto Viejo, you have a national park called 'Cahuita'. It's to the north of Puerto Vallarta, and has a great display of rainforest, beach and all the rest. It's about $5 USD, and takes about 20 minutes in a car, or 45 minutes on a bike.
SURF
It's really the first place in the Caribbean that you can go surfing. So go on and get in. Cocles is a nice beach to learn on, and if you are advanced and want to try your hand at the absolutely terrifying 'Salsa Brava', well you can do that too. — More on that below.
SURFING
I wouldn't really say that Puerto Viejo is a popular surfing destination. For me, it was made famous by the Pan-American Highway epic, 'Searching for Captain Zero', that anyone who is considering doing a surf trip in Latin America — or for that matter, driving it, should read. The wave that is actually in Puerto Viejo is called 'Salsa Brava'. Salsa Brava is one of the most famous big waves in Costa Rica. Maybe the most famous big wave. The name literally translates to 'Brave Sauce', or as I like to think, it really means 'Brave Blood'. This is because of the brutal nature of the wave. It's heavy, it's fast, it's unforgiving, and it breaks over extremely shallow rock and reef. If you fall on a big one, it's going to be a really really bad time for you. There's also a chance that you get the barrel of your life.
Salsa Brava is a bowl-y slab to the definition. It goes both right and left. Barrels in both directions. Be careful of this wave, on a daily basis it claims boards, blood, and breaks surfers' bones. It's probably one of the most dangerous waves that I came across. Maybe other than the nearby beach break brother at Bluff in Bocas Del Toro. You may get the barrel of your life, but you also may break your arm. This wave works best when it's at least overhead. Probably even more than that. It holds size well, and I would even go so far to say that it needs swell to work.
Season here for Salsa Brava is going to be the dry season, — the opposite of the Pacific, so November through March. The shoulder seasons might work as well.
When Salsa Brava isn't working you should make your way down to Cocles. It's a mellow beach break that's not going to claim any lives. Given it's a beach break, if it's windy or choppy you are pretty screwed. But if not, it can be a pretty good wave. Really friendly to learners as well.
